Best cat health products

How to choose pet insurance for a cat

Insurance doesn’t make vet care cheaper. It spreads the cost of a big bill across a monthly premium. It is worth considering most when your cat is young and healthy, because conditions that show up before you enrol are usually not covered. To see what you might be insuring against, try our vet cost estimator and read the cost of an emergency vet visit and a dental cleaning.

What to compare

• Waiting periods. The days between buying a policy and being able to claim. Illness waiting periods are often longer than accident ones. Ask for both numbers.
• Exclusions. Read the list. Dental disease, behavior problems, routine care and some breed-linked conditions are excluded by some plans.
• Pre-existing conditions. Anything your cat had signs of, or was diagnosed with, before cover started is generally not covered. Check how the policy treats conditions that cleared up.
• Hereditary and congenital conditions. Some plans cover them, some exclude them, some cover them only after a waiting period.
• Reimbursement percentage and deductible. The share of an eligible bill the insurer pays, commonly 70, 80 or 90 percent, and what you pay first, either per year or per condition.
• Limits. Annual, per-condition and lifetime limits. A per-condition limit matters most for long illnesses such as kidney disease or diabetes.
• How it pays. Most pet insurance reimburses you after you pay the vet. A few can pay the clinic directly. Ask how long claims take.
• Price changes. Ask how premiums change as your cat ages, and whether the insurer can decline renewal after a claim.

Questions to ask before you sign

Does the plan cover exam fees? Does it cover prescription food, which is often needed in kidney and urinary disease? Are there limits on alternative therapies? Can you use any licensed vet? Get the answers in writing, and compare the policy document, not just the quote page.

How to choose cat food

Cats are obligate carnivores, so they need nutrients such as taurine and animal-source protein in their diet. A food built for that, made by a company that tests its recipes, matters more than any marketing claim on the front of the bag.

Check for “complete and balanced”

In the United States, AAFCO sets the model nutrient profiles that pet food labels refer to. Look for the nutritional adequacy statement, usually in small print, saying the food is complete and balanced for a stated life stage. It should also say whether that was shown by feeding trials or by formulation to meet the profile. Foods labeled “for intermittent or supplemental feeding only” are not meant to be a cat’s whole diet.

Ask the company the WSAVA questions

The World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA) publishes guidelines for selecting pet foods. They suggest asking a manufacturer: is there a qualified nutritionist on staff? Who formulates the diets? What quality control is done on ingredients and finished food? Can they share nutrient analyses and research? A company that won’t answer is telling you something.

Match the life stage

Kittens need a growth diet. Adults need maintenance, and seniors often need fewer calories but just as much protein. Our cat calorie calculator gives a starting daily amount, and the body condition score helps you adjust. When you change foods, use the food transition planner to switch gradually.

Wet, dry or both

Wet food is about three-quarters water, which adds to a cat’s fluid intake. Cats evolved to get much of their water from prey, and many drink little. That is one reason vets often suggest including wet food, especially for cats with urinary or kidney problems. Dry food is convenient and can work well when a cat is a healthy weight and drinks well. Check your cat’s intake with the water intake calculator.

Litter and litter box basics

The AAFP and ISFM environmental needs guidelines recommend one litter box per cat plus one extra, placed in quiet spots in different areas of the home. Boxes should be large enough for the cat to turn around easily, and most cats prefer unscented, fine, clumping litter. Scoop at least once a day. The litter box calculator works out how many boxes and what size you need. If your cat starts going elsewhere, read peeing outside the litter box, because it can be a sign of a medical problem.

First aid and carrier basics

• Carrier. Choose a sturdy carrier that opens from the top and the front, with a secure latch. Keep it out all year with a soft blanket so it is a familiar place, not a sign of a vet trip.
• First-aid kit. Gauze, self-adhesive bandage, saline, blunt-tip scissors, a digital thermometer made for pets, tweezers, a towel and your vet’s number. Don’t give human medicines: see human medications.
• Emergency list. Keep your vet, the nearest 24-hour clinic and a poison line on the fridge. See our emergency page.

What to skip

• Supplements and “immune boosters” with no stated evidence or dosing for cats.
• Essential oil diffusers and sprays. See essential oils.
• Scented litters and strong cleaning products, which many cats dislike and some are harmed by. See household toxins.
• Any product that promises to cure a disease.
• Treats that add up to more than about a tenth of daily calories.

Our picks, and how we will make them

We will only name a product after we have researched it against veterinary guidance and written down how. We will say what we looked at and what we could not check. If we use an affiliate link, it will be marked and explained in our affiliate disclosure, and it will not change what we recommend.

Frequently asked questions